SWITZERLAND vs THE BLACK FOREST

Triberg Railway Station

Near Lake Titisee, Schwarzwald

From Amsterdam, we made our way to Gengenbach, where we stayed at the fascinating Schwarzwald villa we had pre-booked through booking.com. As it is always in Europe, the journey itself is a key highlight of the trip. We chose the slightly longer but infinitely more spectacular route via Koblenz and Mannenheim, which took us through the banks of the Rhine for the most part of the journey. If you are emulating the journey, sit on the left of the train and look out for the numerous quaint castles perched on hilltops, all along the way.  

Near Lake Titisee, Schwarzwald

We got down at the famous spa town of Baden Baden and transferred to a regional train for the last leg of our journey to Gengenbach. Depending on where your train stops, you could make this transfer at Karlsruhe or Offenburg as well. If you are staying at Titisee instead of Gengenbach or Triberg, get down at Freiberg and transfer to the regional train.

Gengenbach

But why the hassle. Why not just stay at Baden Baden, Offenburg or Freiberg itself, which are on the mainline, and much bigger cities anyway, you may be wondering? For one, the Black Forest towns offered us the best chance to experience the European countryside up close and personal. Second, when you stay in these small towns, you get a Konus card, which entitles to free transportation in the region. From the moment we landed at Gengenbech, until we reached Basel in Switzerland, we didn't spend a single euro on transportation. Everything was covered by the Konus card. Visitors get this card free of cost from their accommodation provider.  Compare this with the 250 CHF Swiss Travel Pass.

Gengenbach

Strange are the coincidences of life. As I was making the booking and communicating with Christel, the owner of Schwarzwald Villa, little did I know I was chatting with someone just 20 kilometers from my house. Christel was in Kochi at that time, attending a Yoga session, and enjoying the Cherai beach. Anyway, Christel and Alberto are the best of hosts you can get, very friendly, charming, and doing everything to delight their guests. The three days we spend there were easily the best three days of our European expedition. If you happen to cross their paths, do not leave without savoring Roberto's delicious croissants and coffee.

Gengenbach is a small town, but Offenburg is just six minutes away by train, Two Turkish restaurants on either end of the station - Istanbul, and Nazar, serve the best pizza, kebab, and falafel's we've tasted in our lives. If you have time for just one, go to Istanbul cafe.

Gengenbach Old Town

Now, whether you like Switzerland or Black Forest would depend on whether you liked Hansel & Gretel or Heidi during your childhood.

Switzerland is known for its stunning scenery, snow, chocolates, and high prices. The Black Forest in Schwarzwald region of Baden-Wurttenberg state of Germany has all these, except the high prices. The Black Forest countryside is just as stunning as Switzerland, if not better, and the costs are roughly around one-fourth. German trains are far better and just as punctual as the Swiss ones, and the infrastructure is on-par. You would  get food at one-forth of the prices, you can travel at one-tenth of the prices, and hotels at around half the prices. The people are friendly on both sides of the border, but the Germans more friendly so. Swiss bus drivers shrug you off if you seek information, but I'm yet to meet a German who does that. Also, the Germans are more likely to know English than the Swiss. Where Black Forest falters, and Switzerland excels, is at marketing. The only reason I find to visit Switzerland is to experience snow during the summer months.

In our three days in Germany, we roamed around the charming and enchanting Gengenbach, which seems to be struck in the middle ages, visited the enchanting Lake Titisee and the water park cum spa there, and finally the cuckoo-clock town of Triberg. I would rate these experience as the best ones of the trip, along with the snow at Mt Titlis. 

The water park and spa of Badeparadies Schwarzwald at Lake Titisee is paradise on earth. But this is by no means the major spa of the region. The famous spa town of Baden Baden is on the edge of the Black Forest.

Mt. Titlis, Swiss Alps

In our three full days in Switzerland, we went to Mount Titlis twice, Mt Rigi, and the Hergiswil Glass Factory museum, besides roaming around Luzern old town. It does seem too little, considering the possibilities, but we focused on quality over quantity. Snow is not something we get to see everywhere, so two days in Titlis, with a lion's chunk of the second day in the exciting snow park. 

Lucrene

Mt. Rigi can actually be skipped altogether without much regrets if you have been to Titlis, but the cruise to get there is worth it, and the cogwheel train to go up is just as good. Only there is nothing much to do at the top, and after a while, the scenery becomes an overdose. We didn't  go to the other hyped up mountain in the Lucrene region – Mt Pilatus, since most of the key attractions there, including the Alpine slide was closed, and would open only by May.

Lake Lucrene

The Giswel Glass Factory, compete with its museum, glass maze, and other attractions oftfer an interesting diversion and a unique experience. It is situated alongside a lake, making it just as well. The nearby Coop supermarket is the place to pick up some bargain on factory seconds Lindt chocolates. 

Mt. Rigi

Lucrene

While we are on chocolates, a word of advise though. Don't pack up too much for India. It melts, and when you refreeze it, the taste is not half as good. Enjoy the moment and indulge in as much chocolates as you can when you are there, and leave it at that.

Luzern old town is charming, and definitely worth a few hours of anyone's time. The Lion monument is worth a photoshoot, but the Glacier Park can be missed without much regrets if one is short of time. The Swiss Transport Museum is rated highly, but it requires a full day, and unless you are in Europe for

Wegis

the long haul, there are better things to do with the limited time available.


If we had another day, we would have made our way to Interlaken to get more of the scenery, and
perhaps continued all the way to the Broc Chocolate Factory, Gruyiere Cheese Factory, Lake Montreaux, and Chillion Castle. Well, travel always involves making trade-offs, and there should be something left over for another day.

Our stay at Luzern was at Ibis Luzern Kriens, a bit out of the way, but good value for money in an otherwise pricey Switzerland. It is on the way from Luzern to Giswel and Engelberg, so we saved a few minutes that way. The hotel is actually on the foot of Mt. Pilatus, and set in the open countryside.

NEXT: Down south to Italy